The art of sandcasting jewelry. What is it and why do I use it in my studio?

The process I use in the studio to create unique, one-of-a-kind castings that transform into jewelry pieces.

In the jewelry world, there are innumerable ways to craft jewelry. Two jewelers creating a similar piece might use completely different processes to get to the final product.

In my studio at Halsted Handcrafted, one of the primary processes I use is sandcasting. I have always loved the look and feel of casted jewelry, so from the early days of making jewelry, I knew that I would eventually be using casting as a process.

While investment casting is a popular form of casting (which will be explained in a future post), it requires a lot of specialized equipment, takes time, and is expensive. Sandcasting in comparison is fairly "low-tech", high reward and affordable. For example, while investment casting requires a long burn out period (8-12 hours), sandcasting can happen in the moment.

So what is sandcasting jewelry and why do I use it in my studio?

Sandcasting is a metal casting process that uses a sticky, delft red clay sand to create a mold in which molten metal is poured into to create the casting.

At Halsted Handcrafted Jewelry, I first create a mold out of hard wax (occasionally I use a found object, like a lake stone). Then I press the mold into the sand. Once I remove the mold, there will be empty space where the metal will be poured in.

The ring shape is made out of wax and then pressed into the sticky clay to make a mold.

Katie heats gold to be poured into the ring mold.

Why do I use sandcasting in my studio?

I love sandcasting jewelry because it feels like a truly handmade process. My hands are on every single step of the creation; they literally press the sand into the metal frame and then press the mold into the sand, after I hand carved and shaped the wax in the first place.

I enjoy the low-tech nature of the process and the fact that it lends itself to more natural and organic styles of jewelry. I also love that I can play around with it without wasting gold or a lot of time. If a casting doesn't come out the way I want it to, I can just re-melt it down and try again.

Fresh gold ring casting, using the sandcasting process.

Sandcasting jewelry is an imperfect process. It does not capture as much detail as other types of casting and castings tend to texture on them.

Truthfully, I am balancing this. A large part of me loves the imperfections and wants to grow to use them more strategically and intentionally in my designs. I tend to lean towards and organic and natural look that sandcasting can support and enhance.

However, occasionally I do want a clean look that requires a lot of cleanup after the casting is produced, or in a perfect world would be completed by investment casting.

Katie puts baby powder into the ring mold, so that when the two sides of sand connect, they don't stick to each other, messing up the ring.

After the casting is created, next I will sand down the casting to clean it up and follow that by setting precious gemstones. Usually Montana sapphires here in my studio :)

There's your brief sandcasting overview. Have any questions? Let me know in the comments - I would love to teach you more about how jewelry is created in my business.